New is the buzzword at Olde Hickory Brewing. With new management, the brewpub's staff's attitude is as optimistic and as fresh as the beer. Publicity has been favorable and the place is busy, seven days a week. Visible, structural changes are only superficial. The beers, thankfully, have not been altered. We still have the wonderful taste selections of Hickory Tavern Ale, Brown Mountain Light, Table Rock Pale Ale, Crawdad Red, and Hickory Stick Stout to choose from.
So what is really new about this current management team? According to original brewmaster and now co-owner Steve Lyerely, the difference is in their philosophy. Along with partner Jason Yates, the duo has shifted Olde Hickory's focus away from the direction provided by the previous owners. And that new impetus is-drum roll please-BEER.
The distinction is actually greater than it initially appears. Lyerly and Yates bought the one year old brewpub in order to take advantage of the facility's brewery. That does not mean they are abandoning the brewpub. In fact, blueprints have already been drawn to build a larger, longer, more user-friendly bar. The restaurant's menu has already been spruced up a bit as well. Live music is back on Monday nights. And Olde Hickory is open on Sunday.
But the thing that makes the co-owners' eyes glow brightly is what they have planned for the next three years. The brewing floorspace will soon be expanded, as will the rear of the West Hickory building. Within six months, brewer Steve will switch to all-grain brewing. Eschewing extract malt will not only reduce raw material cost, but will allow Lyerly more brewing latitude and better quality control. Spent grain will either be composted or used as cattle feed.
Preceding that step will be the installation of a 14 barrels (434 gallons) brew kettle and additional fermentation tanks, doubling brewing capacity. All are necessary components if the brewsome twosome are to meet their goal of 3,000 barrels annual output within three years. That 93,000 gallons will be targeted at local bars, restaurants and retail stores in the form of kegs and hand filled bottles. Talks are underway with the local baseball club to bring Olde Hickory beer to Crawdad Stadium. (Imagine slurping down a cool Crawdad Red Ale with Conrad the Crawdad.) So our little west end brewpub aims to grow up to the ranks of regional brewer. Anything is possible...
...Especially with Lyerly's and Yates' backgrounds. Yates brings three essential ingredients to the team- a love for beer and two degrees, in engineering and business. He designs the stainless steel tanks that Lyerly dreams of. Lyerly has a restaurant background and years of brewing experience. Yates works the business and legal side. It's a good marriage, fiscally speaking-both men are young, single, and married to the brewery. Right now their own labor is cheap. Scrubbing, lifting, cleaning, sweating in the hot, humid confines of the brewing room is nasty work. But even after one full year as his sole source of income, Lyerly still feels very fortunate to have turned his hobby into a career. He still loves what he's doing. For now, Jason is keeping his day job.
Hard work, fortunately, has met some modicum of success for Lyerly. International beer guru Michael Jackson praised his Stout. "On Tap" publisher Steve Johnson proclaimed Hickory Stick as one of the best beers present at a beer festival in Durham last spring. But Steve sincerely takes pride in every beer he makes. He relishes compliments from homebrewers and has been flattered by several offers of employment to brew elsewhere. Turned them down, of course.
Olde Hickory has short term plans too. Over the next few months look for the introduction of a Chocolate Porter, several fruit beers- maybe even a Cherry Stout- and perhaps the first beer engine in North Carolina. Cask-conditioned, naturally carbonated beer served via a hand-pumped beer engine is a tradition begun in jolly ol' England centuries ago. The beer is warmer, smoother, easier to drink and better tasting. Take my word for it. Better yet, try it yourself.
Jason and Steve are "tickled to death" to be in control at Olde Hickory. Their positive attitude has been contagious, affecting employees and visitors alike. Patrons are guests, Lyerly claims, not customers. People should enjoy themselves-"have a good time and come back." Often.
Thinking globally and drinking locally just got a little easier at Olde Hickory Brewery.

Copyright 1996
Focus Magazine